saturday night fever
Yesterday's happenings, when looking back on it, there transpired a series of events that can only be described as an epic adventure that one day will become a tale of the ancient myth that my life will surely become. Thank God, cuz Lord knows I was starting to run out of things to write about. Be warned, this is going to be an extensive entry, and you might want to go to the bathroom before we leave home. I don't think there's going to be anywhere to stop once we get on the road.
The events of the day which set this journey ablaze began at 2:30, when we all headed over to this hip, trendy art gallery district to wander the hallowed halls of what appeared to be an abandoned warehouse district converted into this post modern bastion for some pretty fascinating stuff. My mental concoctions inspired by that trip are ones which will hopefully be documented here for you all to read, but without concrete examples to supply much needed stoking to the fire that are my emotions during sojourns to art galleries, they loose a lot of their potency. However, the one thing I will well you about the art galleries was that I saw the best graffiti I've seen in a while, simply because of the ridiculousness of it. One said "walls are monsters" while the other instructed me to "do the death monkey." They made me smile. Regardless, after the art galleries, we managed our way down to Wangfujing, a priced-up shopping district where we hoped to eat dinner before our, obvious, Saturday night interaction with the Beijing nightlife. Here's where our story gets good.
Wangfujing is actually a pretty cool shopping district... if only I had the $300 to buy a shirt in any of the trendy, international brand stores. From Paul Smith to Dunhill (regrettably the fashion company, not the cigarette brand) to Nike, even dabbling in a few Mont Blanc pens and a VW dealership, this mall was clearly a haven for the wealth of foreigners to come, support the growing Chinese consumer economy and generally get themselves all flied up in the largest collection of hot threads I've seen in a while. Needless to say, I wished I was about $100,000 richer. But, like being at Vegas strip show, I could look, but no touching. Other than wandering around the mall, there wasn't much a bunch of broke-ass college students could really do here. Oh, this does bring me to an interesting observation I have made about being in China, a little shallow, but it makes me feel good. Whenever I'm out in public, largely this happens in the subway stations but it's happened numerous times elsewhere, I always find myself catching eyes with Chinese girls who are clearly with their boyfriends. Now, deep down inside I know that, despite what I'd like to believe about my radiating magnetic sex appeal, they are probably looking at me because I'm a white guy in China. However, I still like to pretend that they are totally undressing me with their eyes and saying to themselves "I'd leave my boyfriend for a night with this stallion." Eh, a guy can dream, can't he?
After departing the mall, we began walking towards a restaurant for dinner, abandoning our previous notions of going to the Outback Steakhouse for a few comforts of home and, a most likely, overpriced steak dinner. We eventually find our dumpling house, but not before a few trials and tribulations. First, we walk past this absolutely gorgeous Catholic church right smack in the middle of the shopping district. While a holy house such as this seemed rather out of place surrounded by kiosks of commerce dripping with neon lights and, if I'm not mistaken, down the road from a McDonald's, it was one of those moments where you find a strange sense of emotional peace in the beauty of something amid the consumer overload that modern life has brought. Where it not what happened next, that feeling might have stayed longer than 4 and a half seconds. Oddly, there was a cement truck making a valiant attempt at a three point turn in a space that hardly looked big enough for it to even fit lengthwise. As I, along with everyone else I was rolling with, walk right by it, the truck lets out a cacophonous explosion as it backfires. The bang reverberates inside the courtyard of the church we were across the road from and leaves all of us momentarily deafened in the right ear. It was one of those moments that just shocks you to your core and makes you kinda wanna throw up afterwards. It was not a happy surprise, but a good story for the book of life, and one that I can safely say, few people have been through. If the night had ended there, that still would have provided three decent sized paragraphs of blog material. That would have been nice.
Dinner ended and our Saturday night shenanigans began in full force. A trip over to Sanlitun, a bar district if I haven't told you about it before, resulted in rampant displays of fresh moves juxtaposed with awkward dancing at a bar called Shooters famous for, as you may have guessed, its deliciously small volumed, high alcohol content drinks. After a few drinks there, and some impure thoughts about the girls at the table across from us who turned out to be 17, we moved on to a reputably hot club called Babyface. But, as many things in life turn out to be, the journey was half of the story. We get in a cab on the packed street and try to drive towards the next stop of the night. However, we shortly come face to face with a cab driving straight for us down the wrong side of the road. This wouldn't necessarily be as big a problem as it ended up being had there not be a metal divider separating the two sides of the road. What was he thinking. So our cab driver, obviously being an incredibly resourceful individual, begins to back down the road, and changes lanes. So we are now backing down wrong side of the road, traveling with traffic, facing the cabs in front of us. Continuing in the vein of the night, there's a first time for everything in China.
We arrive at the club Babyface, and already I'm a fan of the decor. It's kind of got this royal black and red thing going on. Sleek, black tiles covering the walls, red carpet lining the floor, crystal chandeliers and silver strings of beads accenting a lighting scheme that played up the techno modernity of it all and played down the underlining feeling that you were in a 15th century English castle. Had it not been for the 35 yuan beers, I could have done some real damage at that place. Just to put this in perspective, the beers at Shooters were only 10 yuan, so you can imagine my upset to find out I had to pay three and a half times that here. I should have known it would be a rip after I found out that they didn't even serve any brands of Chinese beer. Sidestory. So our new plan is to find wherever the nearest convenience store is to the club we are enjoying (surprisingly, it's most likely a 7-11) buy cheap, shitty beer inside there for 2 yuan, and drink it outside the club in the street, because there are, much to the enjoyment of the alcoholic inside me, no laws against public drinking on the streets of China. Back to the story. Oh, the bathroom attendant in the club is possibly my favorite person ever to work in a bathroom. The first time I went in there, walking behind a string of girls I had come with, as I was washing my hands, he told me that he "thought the girls I was with were very beautiful" (a rough translation). The second time I went into the bathroom, he gave me a lollipop and told me to give it to one of my female friends. He was a nice man.
I get out of the bathroom and am suddenly caught up in a whirlwind of reclaiming coats and hailing cabs to venture to another club of which I am still not sure of the name. As far as I can tell, only one person in our group knew where this club was, or at least the name of it rather, and, unfortunately, it wasn't any of our cab drivers. I guess one of the guys thought he knew where it was and told one of the cabs because I was in a cab that was told to "follow the car in front of you." After driving to an area of the city that can only be described as a financial district peppered with the usual construction sites that accent this city, we got out of the cab, convened with the rest of our crew, and most of us planned to go home. Once again, if only my night could have ended here, I'd still have 5 and a half decent paragraphs of material. But in order to convey to you the full extent of the shit that went down yesterday, press on we must. So I, along with three other people roommate included, hailed a cab and began to make our way back to Beida. Which clearly wasn't so much in the cards for us. I must emphasize that I am extremely cold, dressed thoroughly inadequately for a night on the town, and am no where even close to drunk, which is fine, cuz the cab driver was inebriated enough to cover the 4 of us.
Our intoxicated cab driver, driving about 10 miles an hour through the city, clearly has absolutely no idea where we are going. He obviously knows the rough area, but I find it impossible that he "forgot" as he so eloquently put it, where the cities largest, and most well known university, is located. A cabbie, clearly taking you for a ride, is a cabbie not worth sticking with. So we get out of the 6th cab I'd been in since about 5pm, and find another one to take us home. We know that we're relatively close to school, we just have no idea exactly where it is and it's obvious not within walking distance (meaning it was more than about 20 feet away from where we were standing). Finally we made it home, apparently well after our friends did, despite the fact that we got into the first cab that left and most of them were still deciding if they wanted to actually make more than a cursory glance at their surroundings to find this place.
So there you have it, a tale that rivals Odysseus' perilous journey home after the close of the Trojan War. Sure his involved a lot more sex on the isle of Calypso, but he didn't get to eat the most delicious dumplings I've ever seen, which, in the end, is all that this story was really about. Sorry to take up so much of your time, but I at least hope you cracked a smile a few times during this story. If not, the full price of your admission will be refunded and your wasted time will be credited to your account. Just come find me after the show. I'll be the guy in the back trying to open the safety seal on this bottle of Children's Tylenol.
there's a rumbly in my tumbly...
